World Travels: Final Leg
Now moving onto our final leg of our worldy trip we now head onto to Australia. Flying into Melbourne is a first port of call but beyond this and Sydney we haven't a clue where to go but this all came clear over the next few weeks ....
Australia: the beginning...
Email Date: 27th April 2005
Subject: Ding Dang Doos
Well as four weeks have zipped by in Australia I think it's time to update you all of our new life down under and tell you all about snags, slabs, schooners, dunars, roos and ding dang doos!
First of all, going way back to March 31st (boy doesn't time fly when you're having fun) our experience going through customs at the airport was something never to forget! Ladened with my new electrical purchases, legally I was supposed to declare anything new, bought over A$900; aswell as declaring sweets, nuts, fruit, wood and excess soil on the underside of your shoes - does that give you an idea of their strictness - we were supposed to declare absolutely that wasn't Australian!!
Once the plane landed the sweating commenced. We collected our ever growing backpacks from the designated
bay but straight away we hit our first hurdle - sniffer dogs. With sensitive noses the ogs weren't taking
too kindly to our backpacker's whiff. The Australian dog nassils were particularly sensitive to the Pomy
backpacks but fortunately an Italian lady had been sniffed and saved our bacon!! So using using her as decoy
we bounded through to passport control where we met 50 pairs of trained Aussie eyes, checking us out from a
distance as we trapsed up to the gate. Straight away they fired leading questions as to our purpose in Aus
and questioned lady V's photo in her passport, which kind of helped. Luckily they didn't ask to search my
rucksack with my new "undeclared" laptop inside and we were passed our second hurdle - sweat was flowing
down the cheeks now but we met our final hurdle - bag security....now my t-shirt was ringing wet and the
heart was getting it's first work out for over 8 weekd! Anyway the bag with the newly undeclared laptop
went through X-ray and I was fearing the worst...but low and behold another Italian woman (possily the
same Ialian that was sniffed out earlier) was in front and had been pulled over for some other Italian
food products, boy these Italians love their own food...but this again side tracked security and meant I
was through and free to roam the streets of Australia, you little beauty!!! So I'd avoided the Aussie tax
which is fantastic lets just hope this email doesn't get intercepted!....??
So here we are, official residents of Australia for one year unless of course we're our talented services are required for longer and our short term residency is extended, but hey we're always open minded.
Our Aussie adventure all started off with three nights in Melbourne before we headed up to Sydney, potentially our eventual destination for the remaining year. Melbourne was fantastic. Admittedly it was great to be back in a land boding European familiarality, serving earthy meals, seeing normal sized people but more importantly the availabilty and cheapness of drinking an ice cold "schooner" of beer (a serving just less than a pint)!! We packed a number of things in the three days, including watching comedy for two nights (comedy festival equivalent to the Edinburgh festival had hit the shores), experienced an Aussie rules game at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) and had a days tour at the Yara valley for wine and Chandon tasting!
First off, comedy was our first night in Melbourne - with a little crazy advice we saw a UK show and a duo Aussie
act. Stuart Lee being the first, who'd written the Jerry Springer Opera show. Must admit the Aussies struggled to
bond with his intelligent dry sense of humor so the crowd was a little quiet, but we made up for this! The second
act were two fresh alternative Aussie comedians. They were called "the somewhat secret secret society", parping on
about secret societies in the world...I'd say it was more of an education than a laugh, but fair dincom!....but the
Australian rollercoaster of fun begun at a local hotel (equivelent to a pub in the UK). The hotel was hosting an after
party comedy night. Here a few acts played snippets of their shows for free - think if we'd known about this earlier
we'd have settled for this and not paid for the other shows!! Starting at 10pm and finishing around 2am the comedians
were trying to get the delpleying crowd going. Admittedely they were getting a fair bit of abuse from heclars and in
fact security were called in to escorted them out - losers, althoug I didn;t say this to the lads as the locals seem
to average well over 6ft in all directions!
Anyway we ended up chatting to two english comedians but prior to that I'd been giving a comedian advice how to promote himself and get himself known, superb, can't believe he was listening to me jibber on! Anyway the two enlish acts were Nik Coppin and Dan Willis. After a few more schooners they ended up inviting us down to St.Kilda to see their show the night after next - which we did! Before we saw them we'd been on a wine tasting tour in the Yara valley. It was an ealry start and a mini bus load of us tasted Aussie wines and the all important Chandon champage all day. On the bus were a group of 10 Irish girls from Cork, they were a top bunch who loved their wine but certainly made the day exciting! In fact the girls were staying in St.Kilda and told them that we were in their kneck of the woods "dropping in" to see an english comedy act - but lw and behold the wine downing was too much for them and didn;t rear their ugly faces! Anyway we caught up with Nik and Dan (obviously now best comedian friends), before the show, sat ourselves on the front row. We had a little English banter during the show (just to help them out) and joined them after the act for a few schooners! Admittedly we felt like we'd hit the highlife mixing with English comedians but at one point one of the duo act were signing a girl's breasts which brought us back to reality that these guys were perhaps a little desparate for recognition...but then again so am I, ha ha!!
Also in Melbourne we saw an Aussie football match. It was a local match, Carlton (the blues) v Essendon (the bombers). All the supporters were thrown in together but unlike English football there was no crowd trouble. We supported Essendon 'cause it sounded like Essex but they were pipped at the post by one point, which apparently was the most exciting game at the MCG. We thought Essendon had won because they had the most number of goals but apparently it depends on which goal they score in, determines the points....nice one.
Anyway on our last day in Melbourne we found an area that we loced. North west of the CBD, Brunswick street was littered with cafe's and bars with excellent tram and bus connections into the CBD. We immedietley thought that if Sydney were not to work out or if we wanted a change we'd definitely live here. It was a lazy Sunday afternoon and most Aussie's were out sinking beer by the schooner. It had a relaxed professional feel and was not disimilar to Balham...but hey nothing can compare to Balham!
Anyway we'd had three boozy nights in Melbourne with very little sleep, mainly due to American teenage girls
screaming their heads off in the early hours of the morning at our overly expensive backpackers accommodation but
it was now time to hit the long and dusty road and head up to Sydney for a little taster of the year ahead before
we travelled up to Queensland - it's just the beginning to the mileage we've put into travelling through Australia,
I just can't believe how big thi place is!
The coach ride was overnight and took 11 hours. Every person we told winced at the thought of us travelling this distance in a coach but we were used to the conditions of travelling long distances although not not used to screaming baby sitting along side us, arghhhhhhhhhhhh!.....Anyway with the journey behind us we'd treated ourselves to a centrally located hotel in Sydney and thanks to work cashed in a "lastminute.com" voucher to pay for the stay - cheers MediaTel! We ventured around town and noticed the difference to Melbourne's slightly slower pace of life, although not compared to Brisbane (where we are now), as described in our rough guide, it's almost "backward lifestyle", nice touch!
Our first day in Sydney brought clouds so was a little nippy, a contrast to Melbourne's blazing sunshine (apparently usually the other way round) but we thought we'd view our first shark in Australia for hopefully the first and last time! It wasn't in the Pacific Ocean but at the Sydney Acquarium! The collection of fish was very impressive. The main attraction, I think used to be the plattapus, a national icon but now "Nemo" the clown fish was the main attraction - unbelievable how Disney can influence the nation!...but my main interest was the shark tunnel. Filled with 5 sharks, 5 turtles and 2 manta rays it was an eery experience!...if the sharks knew "Nemo" was taking away their limelight there'd be no clown fish left in the acquarium! Being sh*t scared of sharks is obviously natural but seeing these boys in the flesh makes me even less inclined to get into the sea!
We had two nights in Sydney and the second night met up with Kim! Lady V's ex-flatmate in London. We met up in Paddington, a great area just ourside Sydney CBD. Kim had befriended an Italian, who apparently had a spare bedroom for me and V to share with him but I think within 5 minuyes we'd fathomed that he should have been sniffed out at customs, mumma mia!!!
After a fantastic night and with sore heads and no work to get up for (boy that feels good) our next stop was
Campbeltown - an hours train ride from Sydney CBD out to the suburbs! Lady V has relatives out there and they'd kindly
to put us up for as long as wanted - fantastic! Within an hour of arriving, Ray (father of the house) drove us down to a
bottle shop and we got in a slab of Carlton colds and wine and already felt like we'd slipped into the Aussie family
lifestyle - Beuaty!!! Venessa (daughter of the house) was preparing to head off the U.K so felt like we were swapping
shoes in the family household. We stayed in Campbletown for a week and was perfect. Being a traveller it was so great
to rest, eat home cooking and watch Neighbours most days. Sp after 10 weeks of travelling we were ready to untie the
fruity walking shoes, unstrap the weight baring backpacks and wash down the travellers dirt that deemed impossible to
wash off budget backpacker Inns! Ray, Jineeta and Vanessa's hospitality was second to none though! Experiencing our
first Aussie barbie was great, including snags, burgers but no kangoeroo (which I'd embarrissingly asked for at the
local butchers, nice touch). Living out in the suburbs didn't stop us from travelling into Sydney most days! We paid
a visit to Randwick, where lady V is now fully registered and ready to work once we return from our Queensland adventures.
We're considering living in Coogee Bay based on the coast, 30 minutes from Sydeny CBD and 5 minutes from Sydeny
Children's Hospital. Coogee has everything. A beach, tennis club, cricket club, rugby club, potentially a football and
netball club but more importanly a bowls club - boy do these Aussie's love their bowls!!
We experienced a trip from Sydney harbour to Manly, North Sydney. The boat ride was fantastic and can honestly
is a stunning view jetting out past the Harbour Bridge and Opera house. Obviously with now just under a year ahead
I'm sure we'll be spending plenty of time around this area! After just over a week in Campbelltown, fitting in nine
holes of golf and a night out at the Catholic Club, gambling for plates of meat, playing on the pokies and thrashing
a few Aussies at snooker we headed North up to Coff's Harbour with Vanessa for a free ride! After a 7 hour drive,
stuffing our faces with unbetold junk food from our stocked up "Esky" we hit the north east coast. Staying just outside
of Coff's Harbour we were in an area where post was never delivered, Russell Crowe enjoyed his privacy with guards
guarding his mansion. The local shops consisted of a chippie, post office and a coffee shop all run by the couple's
family we were staying with. Coff's Harbour is quite exclusive boding a small harbour with mooring boats of the semi
rich and famous alongside the fishing boats bringing in fresh Baramundi, Norah, shrimp, swordfish etc etc. Nearby
there was a Big Banana complex (found out that "Big" somethings are all over Australia wih complexes hosting "Big
red back spiders", "Big cows", "Big shrimps", the list is endless). Now, because of Lady Vs worrying transfixtion of
bananas Big banana was a must visit. There were acres of banana trees; just what the doctor prescribed for lady V .
We were guided up the sloping hills via a train and had a brief explanation as to how our yellow herb friends grew.
Dissappoitingly we weren't given a free banana but at 20cents a go we treated ourselves!
The house we stayed at was on the face of 5 acres of land and were told kangeroos, possums, snakes and spiders regulalrly paid a visit to their gardens. Both nights we were there ventured out at night to find sleeping kangeroos - but to avail! After being in Aus for over 2 weeks we still hadn't seen a wild skippy...but low a behold the morning Vanessa drove us to the local bus station (an ungodly hour,thanks Venessa you were a star!) to catch yet another bus up to Brisbane a dopy Kangeroo was sighted. We stopped the car and with a glazed look from both parties we proudly took a photo - get in!! Ding dang doos we'd finally seen a kangeroo!! So we were now heading up to Brisbane to drop in on a great friend - "Big A". Apparently his base in Brisbane is listed as a "Big" complex but must warn you, his complex seriously contains a health warning. Your liver may be seriously impared by all the Queesland XXXX bottles of booze Big A plies down your throat! We spent just over a week with Big A's parents but had an absolute "blast maaaaaaate, you little beauty!!!". Staying with Andy's parents, the first we naturally had a barbie!! More snags were barbecued aong with a succulent sirloin steak accompanied by onions and mushrooms and an Aussie garden salad - you beauty!!!!!
We've only just left Brisbane this morning, bleary eyed after very little sleep, joined the big A on his local bus into work so that we could catch a bus for a 3 hour trip up to Noosa - an up market beach town further up the Queensland east coast - Queensland is the sunshine state of Aus and boy does the sun shine!! We packed in a lot in our week and a half stay with Big A. The second weekend we were there it was ANZEC day - a public holiday to commemorate the Australia and New Zealand soldiers dying in the first World War. Me and V headed down to Surfer's paradise, two hours south of Brisbane. We had two nights there before we hooked up with Big A in Byron Bay, the land of hippies, druggies and alcoholics....well it used to be, but it's been cleaned up since the hip 60's, the swinging 70's only to be filled with flash surfing Aussies and scruffy backpackers, like ourselves! Firstly though Surfers paradise is situated on the "gold coast", a stretch of white beach that goes on for miles. We were now experiencing some proper beaches - the beaches in Thailand do not even compare to these in Queensland. The sand is a perfect white, the waves are a perl blue with frothy white splaying out from the crashing waves but more importantly you have space!! We stayed just outside Surfers, in Southport and ouir first visit to the beach was a lonely one. Ok we did have a sand storm but we were the only one's there for miles! Anyway after two fantastic beach days on the gold coast we caught another bus down to Byron Bay last Saturday to meet up with Big A!!
Byron Bay is most definitely a must visit. Although a little over priced with a sweeping bay and the most easterly
point in mailand Australia, Doplhins can be seen, surfers can be admired and the buzz out in the town (most of the day)
is quite something. Meeting Big A at the beach bar at 5pm we got straight onto the schooner's of XXXX. Thinking we'd
have a quiet night to get up early for my first lesson in Boogie boarding this was never going to happen. Well the
boogie boarding did but the quiet night didn't. 25-30 Schooner's later, a few games of pool, a stint on the pokkies
and a jump around to three rock local bands we stumbled back to our hostel via the beach. Big A had brought a stereo
and some classic hippy music which was a mistake. Yet again we made considerable noise wailing our hearts out to
Stranglers - the nighbours were not impressed - we seem to be making a habit of this over the last week....anyway
the first day was blurry but plenty of drunken photos as evidence we impressivley got up at 8am to hit the early
morning surf - apparently a must as advised by our guide big A. Big A said the sea would certainly cure the hangover
but swollowing half the salty water certainly did not help! The boogie boarding was fantastic though. We weren't
swimming within the patrolled area but big A knew what he was doing. YOu could feel the strength of the sea. The waves
were getting bigger and better and riding a wave a boogie board is beauty maaate!! Initially wary of the sea me and V
are now lapping up the waves (wel, the baby ones) and are mastering body and boogie surfing, the first steps to being
a respected citizen on the East coast of Australia.
Anyway again this email is getting far too long and been rambling for too long. Sadly I have no photos to attach as I forgot to bring my digital camera to the Internet Cafe but I will send some soon.
Since arriving in Noosa, "the Sunshine Coast" we have checked into our hostel, bought myself some new boardies to match lady V's chocolate brown Billabong bikini, beauty!! We've lazed on the beach after a heavy last night with big A, boy do I feel rough....
Right time to go hope I've filled you all in, again sorry about the lack of emails to let you know of what we've been up to but to be honest these four weeks in Aus have seriously flown by and before we know we'll be back to Sydney living like most others do, going to work but at least we'll only be a stones throw to a beach to practice our boogie boarding, you little beauty!!
Be in touch again,
Dougal sweeping the waves down under.